Im writing this mostly for future reference. I upgraded my odroids OS to Ubuntu-Mate 16.04. On the old one (lubuntu 14.04) i had xrdp configured, but kinda forgot how to use it. I couldn't get it to work, it would just not connect to the desktop sessions, or just disconnect me. So i figured that it might work better on the new OS.. well kinda. I installed it via "apt-get install xrdp" and was able to connect to it via RDP and also login using sesmanXVnc (sesmanX11Vnc always disconnected me for some unknown reason, but the normal one works fine too). Now the problems start...
After restarting, i couldnt reach the odroid. It doesnt connect to wifi without me being logged in locally =/ great. off to the internet! I eventually found a solution that worked for me. (i dont know if this step is necessary, but i didnt want to take any risks) I opened System>Preferences>Internet and Network>Network Connections, selected my wifi and clicked Edit. Then (after authenticating that) i went to the General Tab and enabled "All users may connect to this network".
The Step that probably fixed it was then to get the id of the wifi interface via ifconfig (which resulted in some rather long string, so i will abbreviate it with "enx"). then add a line to /etc/network/interfaces (just open it with nano). The line:
auto enx
this seems to tell linux to automatically enable this interface before loggin in.
Now i can just switch on the odroid without logging in, and it will connect to wifi, so i can then connect via RDP. Next issue: Connecting via sesman now fails, as the desktop server doesnt seem to run. Solution: just try connecting a second time. Yup the second time connecting with sesman suddenly works, while the first time will throw an error.
The linux environment still has a lot of shit to catch up on till i can call it an adequate desktop OS. No matter what you want to do with it, it always involves mysterious textfiles without any common structure that are all in random places. This is why windows has the registry. so you at least have one place with fixed datatypes for this shit. srsly linux get your shit together! ...o i guess you never will cause some neckbeards choke their snakes to their superiority while they waste years of their life just getting their system to work. I already have hobbies that eat my time. i dont need my workstation to eat even more of it
17 March, 2017
08 March, 2017
3D Printer PSU Repair
Finally i get around to another blogpost (tried it with video, not my thing. much easier to just take some pics and write text). I recently aquired a 3D printer kit. For those that dont know what that is: you have to build the whole printer from parts. Its a Geeetech Prusa I3 Pro <some letter, but i dont know which>. Now after painstakingly putting this thing together piece by piece, i even got it to work. But as expected there were problems.
The most obvious one was that i had underextrusion. The printer came with a 0.3mm nozzle, which was just too small for fast printing. So i went and bought myself a 0.4mm one, which now works.
While angrily leveling the bed and doing test prints over and over, i accidentally bumped the printer a bit, and its power went off. Damn, lets see if it works again later. *click*... *click click click* nope. The only thing i got was some coilwhine from the PSU. So i removed the screws that were holding the psu on the printer and let it rather forcefully land on the table the printer was sitting on.
Before disconnecting it, i decided to test it once again. *click*... and the printer came back to life. As it was now running again, i decided to not tinker with the PSU yet. Mostly because of laziness and wanting to do other stuff.
As im now approaching the point, that i got the hang of printing, i want to move it elsewhere. Cant have a loud 3D printer next to my bed when i have to print bigger parts. Before doing that, i decided to take a look at the PSU, to see if i can find a dry solderjoint. Here some pictures
seems the layout is kinda standard for these chinese PSUs. I think its mirrored though, in comparison to the one from previous posts. So we start at the left top.
You see a fuse, a cap, a common mode choke, then a rectifier, a switch to set 110V or 220V, then a really huge ceramic capacitor (big red) it looks like one of those standard ceramic caps, just much wider, then we have the 2 big elcos, at the end of the board the 2 switching transistors, in front of that the whole switching circuit, then in the middle the big switching transformer, to the bottom of that the shottky diode for rectification of the transformer output, then a big inductor and some output caps.
Now on the underside you see a lot of traces. I was looking for a dry solderjoint. On the top you see that big silvery part, that is the pad that leads from the diode to the inductor, and here is where the fault lies. When you zoom in, you can see that the 2 wires of the inductor have broken loose from the solder.
That is a relatively easy fix. So i put some more solder on the part and made sure toburn my fingers on the hot wire while holding the inductor from the other side get the two wires to properly connect to the pad.
Properly might be an overstatement, but i put it back on the printer and it works fine now :D
The most obvious one was that i had underextrusion. The printer came with a 0.3mm nozzle, which was just too small for fast printing. So i went and bought myself a 0.4mm one, which now works.
While angrily leveling the bed and doing test prints over and over, i accidentally bumped the printer a bit, and its power went off. Damn, lets see if it works again later. *click*... *click click click* nope. The only thing i got was some coilwhine from the PSU. So i removed the screws that were holding the psu on the printer and let it rather forcefully land on the table the printer was sitting on.
Before disconnecting it, i decided to test it once again. *click*... and the printer came back to life. As it was now running again, i decided to not tinker with the PSU yet. Mostly because of laziness and wanting to do other stuff.
As im now approaching the point, that i got the hang of printing, i want to move it elsewhere. Cant have a loud 3D printer next to my bed when i have to print bigger parts. Before doing that, i decided to take a look at the PSU, to see if i can find a dry solderjoint. Here some pictures
seems the layout is kinda standard for these chinese PSUs. I think its mirrored though, in comparison to the one from previous posts. So we start at the left top.
You see a fuse, a cap, a common mode choke, then a rectifier, a switch to set 110V or 220V, then a really huge ceramic capacitor (big red) it looks like one of those standard ceramic caps, just much wider, then we have the 2 big elcos, at the end of the board the 2 switching transistors, in front of that the whole switching circuit, then in the middle the big switching transformer, to the bottom of that the shottky diode for rectification of the transformer output, then a big inductor and some output caps.
Now on the underside you see a lot of traces. I was looking for a dry solderjoint. On the top you see that big silvery part, that is the pad that leads from the diode to the inductor, and here is where the fault lies. When you zoom in, you can see that the 2 wires of the inductor have broken loose from the solder.
That is a relatively easy fix. So i put some more solder on the part and made sure to
Properly might be an overstatement, but i put it back on the printer and it works fine now :D
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